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79 Zen. The past exists only in our memories, the future only in our plans. The present is our only re- ality, and the shadow stuck to the tires, stretching tall at the end of each day, is a persistent reminder of our presence. A bicycle tourer is acutely aware of the primacy of the present journey over the fu- ture destination. In turn, the journey becomes the destination. Do you want to try? The truth is anyone can do it, but three principles are paramount. First, do it alone. Devoid of distractions, the sense of adventure is heightened and deeper relationships develop both with the journey and with those you’ll meet en route. Secondly, use the little roads. Ex- perience a more authentic character and discover the hidden corners that outsiders rarely see. Along the south coast I rolled through rustic hamlets far from the main highways, isolated between moun- tains and trapped in a bygone age. A backwoods route also ensures quietude, a closer proximity to nature and shelter from busy traffic. Country lanes and farming tracks are well mapped in Korea, and they’ll often be all yours for hours on end. But most importantly, make your plans deliber- ately indefinite — travel, don’t just arrive. Lacking a predetermined route, you’ll remain receptive to the whims of fate, fortune and fancy as you forge your own unique path. There’s a tangible excitement and great freedom in not knowing where you’ll bed down at the end of each day. And given the Korean predilection for camping, there are always ample opportunities to sleep wild under open skies and remain safely undisturbed. Pagodas also conveniently dot the landscape at the most scenic spots: in suburban parks and rural villages; by idyllic beaches and dramatic coastline; on the banks of bending rivers and overlooking swaying rice fields; perched preciously on moun- tainsides, with magnificent panoramic vistas. Try them all. As a Zen cyclist, detached from all extraneous concerns, you can be in blissful harmony with the present. You’re at once cruising on autopilot and intensely aware — simultaneously peaceful and euphoric. Most evenings this last summer, as the sinking sun winked from behind a craggy peak, I found myself floating effortlessly through a dream world, possessing everything I needed to ride on endlessly to the edge of the Earth: The mild evening air cooled the sweat on my brow and an endorphin-laced ecstasy bubbled up from deep inside, flowing to every corner of my being in a skin-tingling wave and escaping in a broad smile,stretching wide from cheek to cheek. For such joyous moments, I’ll keep on rolling. I n a w o r l d s u f f u s e d w i t h s u c h s e n s o r y s t i m u l a t i o n , y o u c a n b e c o m e c o m p l e t e l y a b s o r b e d i n a p r o f o u n d a p p r e c i a t i o n o f t h e m o m e n t . A n d t h i s i s t h e v e r y e s s e n c e o f Z e n .