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37 at magpiE, a focus on simplicity Originally, a concrete room, brewing equipment, a porter and an IPA were all that were needed for Magpie to stake a tract of land in the alleys which would blossom into the future “beeropolis” of Gyeongnidan. At frst it was as stripped down an establishment as one could fnd. But at the time this article introduced them to the expat community, they had already begun experiencing growing pains such as starting to brew offsite, lacking seating and struggling to offer enough brewing classes. just say no to bad bEEr Reilly’s Taphouse took the selection on offer at any one particular location to an entirely different level. Most beer connoisseurs would agree that on draft and out of a glass is the preferred method of imbibing — a notion Reilly’s is dedicated to catering to. Offering over 30 draft handles, they also brew up a couple of original concoctions of their own. Korea’s only certifed cicerone, Troy Zitzelsbergerberger, is on site to help you perfectly pair those suds with some savory snacks. HomE brEwErs lEad tHE pusH to bEttEr bEEr Not just an online Shangri-la for the dedicated few, Homebrew opened a physical location in Itaewon to offer homebrewing supplies and instructional classes. With only about half of their customer base being comprised of foreigners, the numbers reveal that many Koreans have gotten wind of the new “hot thing” and, in true Han fashion, are scrambling to get ahead of the curve. Homebrew also helps organize beer fests in coordination with several local pubs in the Itaewon area. eligible for a brewer license was sliced down to 120,000 liters. Craftworks partnered with Ka-brew, and the wort began fermenting. Soon after, 7 Brau was issued the first brewery distributor permit since the OB/ Hite-Jinro duopoly came to dominate the na- tion –– the first permit to be given out in 77 years –– and now their handles can be found in watering holes scattered across the city. Later on, Magpie Brewery popped up near Craftworks and was quickly followed by The Booth and Springs Taphouse. Then, like wild- fire, Itaewon saw Han’s Microbrew store open its doors along with a pub showcasing what is unquestionably the largest microbrew draft selection in the country: Reilly’s Taphouse. Featuring over 30 taps along with original beers such as Espresso Peculiar and Jeju Jubilation IPA, the pub is co-owned by Troy Zitzelsberger, Korea’s only certified cicerone. Joe McPherson, the proprietor of foodie-hub ZenKimchi, is right when he says it: “Seoul is going through a beer renaissance, and it’s long overdue.” This orgiastic liquid frenzy is not a foreign- ers-only enterprise, either. Korean tastes are changing at breakneck speed, whether be- cause of increased exposure to alternatives via overseas travel or the profound realization that your booze doesn’t have to taste like dog piss; sales growth of domestic beer has re- mained steady while imports are on an expo- nential upswing. Department stores and big box retailers have expanded their selections to offer literally hundreds of brands, and even the suits at the top are scrambling to get a piece of the action: They’ve introduced a few almost-palatable options like Queen’s Ale and Lotte’s Kloud. Nevertheless, it seems that our grassroots beer movement will keep going strong on its own. New establishments are opening ev- ery day featuring some delectable suds, and beer-savvy Koreans are spreading the word. Craftworks has two more locations now, one on Eulji-ro and another in the suburb of Bun- dang. Home-brewers are also holding events like Fermentation Celebration and the Home- brew Festival where curious members of the public can sample what these independent beer lovers have concocted. “When I first got to Seoul there was only Cass, OB and Hite,” reflected Gray, “so our bodies adjusted to waking up with severe hangovers. But there are a lot of very happy beer drinkers here now, so I guess the endless headaches of the ‘90s somehow paid off in the long run.” Story and Sidebar by Ian Henderson / Photos by Christine Pickering and Matthew Lamers 04.2013 06.2013 03.2014