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35 tHE KorEan curry quEst Not to be outdone by American and British grub, Indian restaurants smashed onto the scene back in 2002 with the advent of Everest, Dongdaemun’s super popular hole-in-the-wall joint with cheap beer and Bollywood on loop. Yeti popped up shortly after — its desert tent, Aladdinesque patchwork cushions and silk wall hangings making Josh Foreman look eagerly over his shoulder for opium and voluptuous, dark-haired women — then later Little India and the roving band of devoted patrons who swirl in and out of its modern, chandeliered decor. India came over to stay for good, and everyone got happier. tHE cHanging of noKsapyEong daE-ro The closure of Istanbul and Namsan Kimchi Jjigae brought big changes and vacant buildings to Noksapyeong. “Anyone who ever had a bowl of Namsan jjigae is probably still lamenting,” cried food veteran Josh Foreman, “because that kimchi was just … special.” We were sad when they closed, but all was not lost. New restaurants flled the neighbourhood on a pizza-coffee-burger breeze: Trevia, Buttercup Coffee and the now-defunct M Burger tweaked “that little street between HBC and Itaewon.” Istanbul is missed, but its replacements are pretty freakin’ sweet. tHE risE of tHE sandwicH Frustrated (and bloated) after too many Paris Baguette sandwiches? Totally grossed out by that nasty-ass sweet pickle and processed cheese? Hankering for a decent sammy but nowhere near HBC? No worries. There are a handful of restaurants making a killing on the sandwich market, and they all taste better than your average Paris Baguette acquisition. The Bakers Table, Cafe Mamas, Lord Sandwich and Michelle American Sandwich have joined Casablanca in the previously untouchable Seoul sandwich arena. You get to reap the benefts, and even vegetarians won’t fnd themselves wanting. Don’t ever get punched out by white cheese goo and “ham” again. Take Mexican, for example. There was a time, around the same time Aylward joked about cheese at a house party, that Taco Chili Chili on Noksapyeong-ro was the only place in the city where you could get casual Mex- ican food. The food there was simple — ta- cos and rice-heavy burritos for not too much money. It wasn’t the most flavorful Mexican food or the most creatively prepared, but it was Mexican food. And the place was regu- larly packed. Then came Dos Tacos. All of a sudden, there was another option for low-cost Mex- ican. Then came Vatos. Then Don Charly. Story by Josh Foreman, former food editor / Photo by Nina Sawyer / Sidebar by Shelley DeWees 02.2012 03.2012 04.2014 Each place has its niche and its fans, but Taco Chili Chili is no longer the only place around to get Mexican. There’s competition — glorious competition. Seoul’s culinary scene has exploded over the past decade, with young, creative chefs and entrepreneurs taking risks on unique restaurants and artisanal food. The Booth in Gyeongnidan is a good example — Daniel Tudor’s pizzeria that has a ridiculously sim- ple menu and ridiculously funky décor. Pizza choices are limited to pepperoni or cheese, and there aren’t many more drink options. The walls of the place are covered with graf- fiti and customers sit on wooden palettes. A place like that would be beyond the cutting edge 10 years ago; now, it’s representative of the bohemian eateries opening all over the city. Korean cuisine, too, is bucking against tra- dition. Restaurants like Damotori H in Hae- bangchon are exposing Seoul’s international crowd to the uniqueness and variety of Ko- rean food. They serve a couple dozen differ- ent kinds of Korea’s most flavorful makgeolli, along with potato pancakes and other tradi- tional snacks. But they do it in the comfort- able and refined style of a Paris bistro. Susu- mu Yonaguni, the chef at OKitchen, brings an artisan’s touch to Korean ingredients, infusing sauces with makgeolli and elevating the lowly mackerel to culinary heights. “A lot more young, open-minded talent is en- tering the scene,” Richter said. “I just hope that they have enough strength to stand up to the big chains that control everything.”