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What’s in this issue CONTENTS I N S I G H T W E L C O M E 12 EDITORIAL: ThE JEJu Of my ChILDhOOD Even though the island has transformed, Jeju still is what it always has been: one of the most intriguing and mystical islands in Asia. 18 KEy pEOpLE Introducing some of the editors, writers and photographers behind the August issue 19 ThE INbOx Opinions and feedback from readers 20 muST READS A selection of our editors’ favorite articles 22 ON ThE COvER 24 WhAT’S ON Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month 28 ThE NEWS Drug smuggling in Korea on the rise; Man threatens immolation inside Ramada Hotel; Pensions will be divided in divorces; Pyongyang complains about Rogen, Franco film; Councilman indicted in murder case C O V E R S T O R Y 34 SOfT-SERvE SEOuL Dealing flavors that sound more like street names for LSD than dessert toppings, Korea’s organic ice cream fad is about to blow your mind. 38 CRuSTACEAN SENSATION Your sandwich game has a fever, and the only cure is more lobster. Head to Itaewon for a surprisingly affordable Atlantic indulgence. 40 SmOOThIE pARTy! Break out your blender, your greens and your flavor-pairing A-game — the solution to your nutrition slump is on its way F O O D 46 AN OASIS OuT Of ThE AShES Groove explores Jeju’s distinct, matriarchal — and disappearing — microculture that sits beyond the orange groves and sandy beaches. D E S T I N a T I O N S 66 EChOES Of JEJu A former expat revisits his young family’s year in 1970s Jeju and the parts of island life that will never be the same. 30 fOR NORTh KOREA’S ELITE, EvERy mOvE IS hIgh STAKES A snapshot of the pressures facing North Korean envoys stationed abroad 32 CREDIT CARDS — ThE KOREAN WAy In the Korean credit card scene, loose spenders and late payers need not apply 34 46 a u G u S T 2 0 1 4ISSUE 94 Check out our GrooveCast episodes on these stories at groovekorea.com. 66